Green fashion: the terrible price behind each pair of jeans

If the most popular fashion on a single product, I want none other than non-jeans. Jeans has gone far beyond the "fashion" category, has become the most common basic models of people's wardrobe, it may be the only one to break the class barriers of fashion single product, people can according to their spending power in the first-line , Light luxury brands, fast fashion brand stores, supermarket chains, wholesale markets and even night market stalls to buy different price jeans. The price of a thousand jeans and the price of ninety-nine jeans in appearance does not seem much difference, washing, knife cutting, holes ... the most popular fashion factor they all have. Another thing in common is that both expensive and cheap jeans mean evil. When you walk into a fast fashion brand crowded stores, it is often your eyes that are piled up on the shelves of jeans, a variety of deep shallow blue looks so fascinating, blue This is a kind of decompression color that makes people feel happy. But when you read this article, you may not be able to calm you any more when you see these blue colors. What is the price of every pair of jeans folded flat on the shelves in front of you, have you ever thought of it? Maybe you've never bothered to think about it, but some of Germany's little brothers have put their questions to everyone who turns a blind eye to the fact that the jeans and the fashion-only jeans that sell for only 9.9 euros are, in the end, Where did you come from? And what is the price that Nature and humankind have paid for these cheap goods? With these questions, they traced back their history from a piece of 9.9 Euro jeans in the German-branded Kik store and found the place where the jeans were born - China, Guangzhou, and Xintang - Everything I saw in the jeans town revolutionized their perception of jeans and the fashion industry. Eventually, they cut these insights into a 45-minute documentary titled "The Cost of Jeans," released in March 2012. However, this is closely related to our life documentary in the country has not aroused much water, a few years ago had had a small discussion, will soon be gone, and four years later, I was in Douban movie See the details page on the film, where fewer than a thousand people have seen the documentary. This film shot bad? No, I just think the film is so good that it is so scary that we can feel guilty about our own ignorance so often we would rather not wake us up and let us see the truth the truth. I will follow my idea of ​​induction to introduce the film, not strictly follow the film's description of the order, I hope more people can read my presentation after a complete look at the film: 1, a pair of jeans = 3480 liters of water, while While wasted, the wastewater polluting a denim washing plant in Xintang, which was discharged directly into the meandering creek surrounding the village without any treatment, eventually led to the Dongjiang River. (Photo: Greenpeace Qiu Bo) Maybe you will argue that the cotton is not only used to make jeans, so if jeans so water, then other cotton products are not about it? No, you are wrong, much worse, because other cotton products do not look like jeans, and you need to use a lot of chemical raw materials to achieve the effect of doing old washing. If you do not know what to do with the old wash, look at the following jeans, faded parts near the knees, thighs folds, and some of the models worn parts are deliberately created by man "old" effect. Acrylic resins, binders, bleach, phenolic compounds, carbon compounds, hypochlorites, potassium metals, azo dyes, potassium permanganate, chromium, cadmium, etc. You can not get your name or name of the heavy metal raw materials All are necessities that make jeans "fashionable." For every ton of denim produced, it will pollute 200 tons of water. Even more intuitively, every kilo of produce, or three jeans, will require 200 liters of water. About 2,500 chemicals are used in the dyeing and finishing of different denim products. The cowboy textile and garment business in Xintang started in the 1980s. Da Dun Village was one of the earliest villages to gather a group of jeans manufacturers. On the satellite map, it is clear that a river near Dayun Village, at the mouth of the Dongjiang River, is in stark contrast to the black river and the light river. Greenpeace staff are being surveyed along a polluted river near Dayun Village, Xintang Town. The villagers said that when the sewage is serious, the water here is simply not sewage, but poisonous water. Smell of irritation, if accidentally touched, the skin will itch or even ulceration. In order to achieve the export quality inspection standards, jeans manufacturers will be washed by repeated washing so that customers in Europe and the United States can not detect the presence of chemicals, a jeans to go through the factory 20 times after repeated dehydration grinding, and then worn out, bleach, Re-color. In order to wash as clean as possible, the water will add a lot of surfactant. After these sewage basically without any treatment, it is directly discharged into the ditch, and eventually remitted to the Pearl River. However, such a wash is just a walk through the venue, so that the jeans "smell" is not so pungent it, in fact, no significant reduction in human injury, sweat in the skin, these hidden in the denim fabric of toxic carcinogens Will be released, and your skin in direct contact. After wasting and polluting so much water, it is only a self-deception effect, and I really do not know whether to cry or laugh. 2, behind the jeans of illegal production methods, sweatshops destroyed not only the health of workers in the production of jeans in every aspect, are people stop the machine non-stop, the workers take turns overnight shift and overnight shift after a busy night, a Workers can finally take a break. Sadly, the blue dust on jeans is eroding their lungs. Working intensively for 15 to 6 hours a day and only for a day off each month is only the most insidious injury that the job brings to workers. When wearing are likely to come into contact with the carcinogens left on jeans, not to mention the workers who produce them? They do not just do not know, they just can not choose because of their livelihood. Such as sandblasting in the world have been banned as an unlawful jeans handling process, but in China's factories can be blatantly carried out. Silicosis is used to say silicosis, silicosis is a pneumoconiosis, is a serious occupational disease. Free silica dust accumulation through the respiratory tract in the human alveoli, affecting gas exchange, and finally the loss of alveolar human lung fibrosis. In the words of ordinary people, the lungs become a lump of earth. Ministry of Health experts have talked about lavage treatment of silicosis patients: the patient under general anesthesia, flush irrigation to the lungs, washed out of the water is turbid, standing for some time, the water will be divided into two layers of water and sediment. At present, there is no cure for silicosis in the world, with silicosis equal to the death penalty. This looks like a 60-year-old worker, Hu Xinglei, who was just 40 years old. What he had done before was blasting work. After he got sick and coughing, he switched to the laundry room and paid a much lower salary than before, Endure the heat and odor of suffering. Still ignorant young people do not know what the present labor means for their future. The following young people are like jeans food factory food, will be spit in a few years later, as a corpse wreck, Hu Xinglei the above encounter is their tomorrow. This purple spray is extremely corrosive, yet the young worker does not wear masks at work because the ventilation and exhaust equipment is not good, and the workshop is hot and scary. The workers have to wear very little clothes and have no time to consider Chemical raw materials will stick to their own body above. Compared to the fatal silicosis, other dust, noise pollution, it seems worthless mentioning. 3, the price of 4.3 European jeans, carrying the consumer's delusions and ordering greed The reason I often in the article ridiculed H & M and ZARA led by the fast fashion brand, because they want to bear the greatest responsibility for the evil of jeans . Last year, I wrote an article on the relationship between fast fashion brands and environmental protection. I am interested in this article. There is no half-dime relationship between fast fashion and environmental protection. Their business strategy is to use qualitative and low prices, but keep up with fashion trends to continuously stimulate consumer desire to buy. If a pair of jeans is priced at 200 euros, the middle and lower class consumer groups may only buy one a year, and will wear it for at least five years. But people can now buy jeans of 9.9 Euro in stores such as H & M and Wal-Mart. Even migrant workers can buy one or two punches each month without any pressure. In the United Kingdom, people now have four times as many clothes as they did 30 years ago. Each spends an average of 625 pounds a year buying clothes, buying 28 kilos a year, and consuming 1.72 million tons of fashion items each year. It is noteworthy that there is an equal amount of clothing thrown into the trash can every year, although they are far from the old clothes. Although China is only a developing country, but I think the situation is similar, more and more cheap clothing prices and more and more convenient shopping is the culprit to promote over-purchase of consumers, a European version of 9.9 jeans, is the "lipstick effect" In today's best expression. As we all know, the lipstick effect is a barometer of economic development. It is also called "the tendency of low-priced products." Simply put, it is not under the circumstances of an economic downturn such as lipstick, perfume, jeans, movie tickets, etc. Must-have luxury "will be consumed by the consumer's desire to export, with sales even far higher than when the economy is improving. Because people's spending power will be affected by the economic environment and decline, but people's desire to consume will not disappear with the decline in spending power. Can not afford to buy expensive, buy a cheaper Ye Hao, people are like this to meet their own. This trend of low-priced products, the mentality of the trend, but also for the current spending power is not strong, but the strong desire of consumers after 90, jeans sold in fast fashion brand, and the school lattice shop ten dollars a bottle Nail polish, like a lipstick of twenty bucks, can not only satisfy their consumer desires, but also satisfy their fantasies of walking in the front of fashion. Now the trend of public opinion is to ridicule the new rich class for the brainless chase of luxury brands, that they are "stupid people more money", spend tens of thousands of dollars to buy a bag of clothing, it is a waste of money. But I want to tell you a cruel truth. The real waste in society today is not the blind pursuit of handcrafted luxury goods by the high-end consumer groups. It is precisely the over-consumption by the low-end and middle-end consumer groups of the fast-paced and over-produced brands. Here's the rules in the jeans market: People want cheap pants, but do not want to wear too long, because almost every week fast fashion brand will launch a new style to tell them that this is the most popular now, they want to buy new as soon as possible, so Brand new jeans have to look like the old, to bear the pain caused by this delusional trend is the people here and their natural environment. H & M stream jeans sold so cheap not for charity, they give the price of the manufacturer, each pair of jeans will not be higher than 4.3 euros. Excluding the production of jeans raw materials, wages, factory rent, machine loss, taxes, 4.3 euros in the remaining how much? We can not stand talking humanely blindly blame the factory owner black heart, are far in the United States and Europe, ordering business people believe that 4.3 euros to buy a do not have to pass through the toxic chemicals to deal with the old washed jeans? I was not so naive at the age of ten, and I know that selling sugar for a dime or a penny will stain both the tongue and the mouth, and the sugar is bitter. The only way to pay for your wish to cut costs is to buy a pair of jeans at 9.9. Do not expect it to be a boutique, it's not rubbish, it's a noxious substance. Factories in small factories also want to raise money to raise workers' wages, improve working conditions and purchase sewage treatment facilities. But they found that once they did it, they would surely raise the cost of a single pair of jeans, and the orderer, no matter how many legitimate reasons you had, would quickly move the order to other, less environmentally friendly and humane Factories, their reasons are very sound: they do not always violate China's laws and regulations, are not allowed to do in Europe and the United States, here is no one tube. The status quo in China's processing industry is that we may earn only 1% of the processing fee of a product, but in our country, it still leaves 100% of the pollution. The child walked through the effluent from a dyeing and finishing plant, and he did not know that the sewage that he had dripped could potentially harm human health. They just want a pair of jeans with a cost of 4.3 Euro. As for how this pair of jeans comes from, they do not want to know more about it. The first second said that the production environment was absolutely intolerable for German manufacturers. A second later, when he heard a reporter ask whether it is possible to pay a little more money and improve the factory equipment to make more money for workers, Runaway: He said the selling price was a thousand times the difference between the pants, but also made in such a factory, and he did not think he gave more money, the factory owner will give more money to the workers. He may say it is true, not that the price of 100 Levi's Reis has no problem. Greenpeace, the Netherlands-based international environmental group Greenpeace, released a survey in 2012: The organization purchased 141 apparel samples from 29 countries around the world and found that 89 of these samples were tested Out of NPE, accounting for two thirds of the total sample size, and almost all brands involved. In addition to containing NPE and phthalates, ZARA and Levi's two international brands in the two apparel have also been found to contain carcinogens "aromatic amine." Four of the 31 offset-printed samples were detected as high concentrations of the environmental hormone phthalate. NPE is widely used in dyeing and washing processes in textile production and is rapidly decomposed into the more toxic environmental hormone nonylphenol when it is released into the environment. Nonylphenol is highly toxic to aquatic organisms and can interfere with the endocrine system and affect the reproductive system. It is also persistent and difficult to degrade and can be accumulated through the food chain. Phthalates can come into contact with the human body through the mouth and have reproductive toxicity, leading to a reduction in the number of sperm and infertility in females, especially for children and pregnant women. In addition, many different types of potentially hazardous industrial chemicals have been detected on most samples. According to the product label, the test clothes produced in 18 countries. Of these, 34 are native to China, of which 70% were found to contain harmful substances. However, due to the year-by-year increase in labor costs in China, many order booksellers have already given their orders to the more backward third world countries and even planned to set up new factories in Africa in the future. This migration is nothing more than the one that will emerge in China Move everything else and staged it again. Perhaps only if the cost of producing a pair of jeans in Africa is not less than 100 euros, will the problem be fundamentally resolved. "We do not know, we just pretend not to know." About all people, including consumers, designers, vendors, brokers, clients, are accomplices. Each of us is silent for our own sake, at the expense of the balance of the ecological environment upon which we live, and the health and lives of countless cheap labor. All in all, just to get a pair of jeans that we would throw away in less than two years. After we read this documentary, we will look at the jeans in our body and feel the legs covered with the dust and cough in the workers' lungs Out of the blood. Who is the murderer inside the tragedy, who is an accomplice? Who will pay for it now and in the future? It is not just jeans that have a similar tragedy behind any flowing product. Maybe we are already numb, we are accustomed to the smog sky, we need filtering to boil drinking tap water, there is a weird odor in the door but there is no living river, only H & M will be listed tomorrow, what new products will inspire us A little bit of interest, maybe such numbness is also a kind of happiness, ignorant, is the happiest. If you do not want to be a silent accomplice, then what you can do is: ① Consider your own safety: Do not buy cheap clothes that emit pungent odor, avoid direct contact with our skin when sweating, and buy new Clothing must be washed once before wearing. ② out of environmental considerations: less to buy fast-fashion brand of clothing, learn to control their own desires, buy quality and durable wear classic clothing, slow down the speed of clothing renewal. Buy less old style jeans, if you can try to buy the primary colors, buy jeans also reduce the number of washing, dry naturally. ③ For Social Responsibility: Create a blacklist of your own brands, include brands that have been exposed by the media in unqualified quality tests, and brands that use the sweatshop's products to reduce the number of visits to them.

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