bubble dress sew-along, day 2

Yesterday marked the first day of the Bubble Dress sew-along, and today is the second and final day where Catherine will guide us through the finishing touches. Thank you so much for joining us, Catherine! Welcome back to the Bubble dress sewalong! This part is where the real magic happens as we create the iconic bubble shape. Start by taking the skirt back pieces and ensure you've marked the dot on the center back seam. Sew them together, right sides facing, with a ½” seam allowance, continuing up the back seam until you reach the dot. Leave the seam open above it. Press the center back seam open and continue pressing the edges above the dot to maintain the ½” seam allowance. Next, pin and sew the front and back skirt pieces together along the side seams. I’m working on the non-scalloped version, but the pattern offers detailed instructions for those who want to add scallops. For now, simply stitch and press the side seam open. Sew and press the lining pieces in the exact same manner. Turn the outer skirt so its right sides face outward, and the lining so its right sides face inward. Insert the skirt into the lining so their right sides are together, matching the side and center seams around the bottom edge. Don’t worry about the top edges—they won’t align yet. Pin and stitch around the lower edge of the skirt and lining. Fold the front piece to locate the center and mark this or create a notch to assist with placing the elastic in the next step. Cut your elastic based on the size chart provided—33 inches for size 5. Form a loop with the elastic and stitch the ends together using a narrow zigzag. Divide the elastic loop into quarters by folding it in half and marking the folds, then matching these folds and marking the new ones. Ensure none of the folds fall on the elastic's join, so this will end up mid-seam. Pin the elastic to the seam allowance at the side seam, center back seam, and center front, aligning the marks on the elastic with each seam. Remember, the elastic will be shorter than the lower edge of the skirt, so don’t try to pin in between the seams. The next step involves stretching the elastic while sewing, which is tricky to photograph since it requires both hands. Set your machine to a narrow zigzag and prepare to sew, positioning your presser foot just before one of the points where the elastic is pinned to the skirt. Lower the presser foot and needle. Hold the elastic and skirt with your left hand behind the presser foot and your right hand in front, holding the next pinned seam. Stretch the elastic until it matches the length of this quarter of the skirt’s lower edge. It should fit snugly within the seam allowance once stretched. Sew along the elastic, securing it within the seam allowance. If you need to stop and reposition, ensure the needle remains in the 'down' position. Repeat this process around the entire skirt. Voila! Turn the skirt and lining so the right sides are outward, and admire that beautiful bubble shape. Match the top edges and pin together the outer skirt and lining at the back center seam, leaving the seams open above the dot, with the seam allowances sandwiched between the two layers. Carefully edge-stitch around the placket, with the outer skirt facing up, sewing down one side and up the other. Baste around the top edge of the skirt and lining so they can be gathered together as a single layer. Before gathering the upper edge of the skirt, mark the center front of the skirt to align it with the bodice later. I use a small notch; it won’t be visible on the finished dress. Now sew two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of the skirt and lining, and it’s time to attach the skirt to the bodice. Retrieve your bodice piece, which is nicely pressed with the right sides facing out. Find the little seam you stitched at the bottom of the back placket on each side of the back bodice, and fold it out to the wrong side again, revealing the dot (or cross, in my case) we used earlier. Match the center back edges of the skirt (where the outer and lining have been edge-stitched together) to the dots on the outside back bodice. The skirt placket should sit right next to the end of that little line of stitching on the back bodice. I use plenty of pins for this corner, and I find the fabric can slip easily. Gather the top edge of the skirt, aligning the side seams and center front, with the right side of the skirt to the right side of the outer bodice. Stitch the skirt to the outside bodice at a half-inch seam allowance, starting and stopping precisely at the dots where the placket seams begin (and remember—pins are your friends!). Fold the bodice plackets back into place. The center back seam of the skirt should be sandwiched between the bodice and bodice lining, just next to the back placket. Magic? I think so! Fold the bottom edge of the bodice lining, pin it, and either hand-stitch or edgestitch it in place. Time for buttonholes already! I love having the opportunity to mix and match some pretty buttons. Sew the buttonholes on the back left-hand placket. I sew the top button first to match the neck edges, then the bottom button to match the placket edges, and then the middle button goes in last. And we’re done! I hope you’ve enjoyed sewing the Bubble dress as much as I have, and that your size-five will have lots of fun wearing it!

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